Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
